Tasik Chini rebirth of the sacred lotus

Introduction

The lake, with the mountain of Gunung Chini
in the background.


Tucked away in a quiet corner of the Malaysian state of Pahang lies the legendary lake of Tasik Chini. The ancient legends of this enchanting lake involve tales of sorcery and dragons, but the modern saga of this wetland is one of ecological mismanagement and the near collapse of a delicate ecosystem. Hopefully, it looks like the story may have a happy ending.


Myths and Legends

Local legend tells a tale of a wandering group of Jakun tribesmen who cleared the land to grow food crops. During their labour, an old woman appeared who proclaimed that she was the rightful owner of the land and that her permission should have been sought before any trees were felled. The Jakun humbly apologised, whereupon the woman allowed the men to continue their work. Before departing, however, she planted her walking stick in the ground as a mark of her ownership, telling the men never to remove it.


Beautiful sunsets are common.



The men continued with their work, but some time later they heard one of their dogs barking and snarling at a decaying log. One of the Jakun threw his stick at the log, but immediately a torrent of blood issued from the log causing the man to run back to his friends in fear. His friends thought he was possessed by demons and tried to keep away from him. However, the barking continued so the entire tribe returned to investigate the log. A spreading pool of blood had formed around the log.

In fear they hurled their own sticks at the sight, whereupon a dark cloud gathered in the sky. The thunder roared, the lightning flashed and a torrent of rain fell from the sky. The men grabbed their belongings and ran for cover, but in the chaos one of them pulled the old woman's stick from the ground - the very stick which they had been warned not to touch. Immediately a fountain of water poured from the hole made by the stick. The water flowed for many years, thereby creating the lake of Tasik Chini. The tribe realised then that the log was actually the dragon called Naga Seri Gumum.

Of course, no magical lake would be complete without stories of a resident monster or a long-lost, sunken city. So, Tasik Chini has both ! Much like the famous Loch Ness, a serpent-like monster is reputed to make the lake its home. More seriously, there are theories that an ancient Khmer city once existed in the vicinity which has prompted archaeological studies of the lake and its surrounds.

The Sacred Lotus

Flower and receptacle of the Sacred Lotus Nelumbo nucifera


In reality, Tasik Chini is less a lake and more a naturally dammed tributary of the mighty Pahang River, which lies to the north. Until recently the lake's waters rose and fell with the seasons - during the rainy season the waters were unable to flow down the narrow Sungai Chini and so became backed up in a series of lakes. A unique ecosystem developed, dominated by the presence of the Sacred Lotus Nelumbo nucifera which once covered the entire surface of the lake system.

During low waters the lotus seeds would germinate, the roots would take hold in the soft mud and the stunning blooms would appear on the water's surface. During monsoonal floods, from October to January the lotus would die back but, the flowers having been fertlised, new seeds would litter the lake bottom awaiting the dry season.


This lotus receptacle contains 31 edible seed-like fruits

Foolishly, in 1995 the State Government Of Pahang, in a bid to make the lakes more appealing to visitors in the dry season, built a dam at the point where the Sungai Chini enters the Pahang River. The waters were then never able to recede again. It wasn't long before the ecosystem started showing signs of stress.

The lotuses became fewer and fewer with the passing years, and large stands of various species of Eugenia trees which border the lake also died back, being unable to tolerate constant submergence. Happily, the mistake has been rectified; in early 2000 the dam was breached and redesigned to accommodate the annual rise and fall of the waters. The lotuses are returning once again, however it will be decades before the damage to the Eugenia is healed.

Local Wildlife

Dieback of Eugenia sp - due to
lake level mismanagement


The lake area comprises over 200 hectares of open water, and 700 hectares of freshwater swamp and swamp forest. In addition to the abundant lotuses, thickets of Pandanus helicopus or Rasau are common towards the margins, along with occasional water lilies. Encounters with turtles are common including the Malayan Soft Shelled Turtle Amyda cartilaginea and Spiny Terrapin Heosemys spinosa.

The surrounding forests are also rich in wildlife. In the dipterocarp forest primates such as the Banded Langur Presbytis melalophos, the handsome White-handed Gibbon Hylobates Lar, the ubiquitous Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis and the Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina may be encountered. The latter species is a common pet of the Jakun people, who still eke a living from the lake and its surroundings. The status of larger mammals in the area, such as Elephant, Tiger and Tapir is unclear.


The Pig-tailed Macaque
Macaca nemestrina - commonly kept as pets by the Jakun people.



Curiously the lake does not seem so attractive to bird life, however common forest-edge species such as bulbuls, orioles and bee-eaters are present, and various kingfishers may be seen, including the uncommon Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting. Overhead the rare Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus still circles.

The lake also serves as an important breeding ground for fish species which upon reaching adulthood then populate the Pahang River. Their migration is now largely unimpeded by the previously dammed mouth of the Sungai Chini.

Information : Visitor facilities : Most visitors will stay at the lakeside Rimba Resort (formerly Lake Chini Resort). The resort has ten standard chalets with ceiling fan, dormitory rooms and a campsite. The rooms are simple but adequate, but some are in need of renovation. The resort has an open-air restaurant looking over the lake - try some of the local freshwater fish dishes. Boat hire and taxi / van transfer are available from the resort.

Pantai Cenang Guides

Everything you Need to Know about Pantai Cenang

Pantai Cenang – Langkawi’s main vein – may not be as rowdy as the Las Vegas strip but it is Malaysia’s most developed west-coast beach; its shores are a gorgeous mix of white sand, crystalline turquoise-blue waters and verdant palms.

Crammed with mostly budget to mid-range hotels, Pantai Cenang – located 25 km west of Kuah – is also home to more than a few high-end resorts. When the sun goes down a peculiar jumble of backpackers, expats, Asian tourists and families throng the main road to eat, drink and window shop.

There are a multitude of restaurants along this thoroughfare that serve seafood, western fare and local favourites. Try the cool Red Tomato for a drink or dine at Orkid Ria and sample some of their giant tiger prawns.

During low season Pantai Cenang is relatively lifeless.

Where to Stay in Pantai Cenang

Pantai Cenang is where most of the island’s resorts are located. Due to its proximity to Kuah, wide range of shopping outlets, endless array of restaurants and night spots, beautiful beach and exciting atmosphere, Pantai Cenang is the top choice for holiday-makers who want to have a gala time in Langkawi. Guests can choose from fancy resorts to beach-side chalets according to their budget level. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Attractions

Visitors will enjoy the hub of activities available in Pantai Cenang. The beach is the most popular attraction due to its beautiful sandy beach that faces a pleasant and gentle sea. Visitors can also visit Pantai Tengah, which is a shorter beach that is contiguous with Pantai Cenang or see marine life in the Underwater World Langkawi. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Activities

The beach is usually littered with couples enjoying the sun, sand and surf; vacationing families tend to stick to the other parts of Langkawi. If you’re looking for a rowdy, rambunctious time, then head on over to some of Malaysia’s other areas for more strenuous activities, because on this beach, rest and relaxation reign supreme. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Restaurants

For dining at night, there are just so many restaurants to choose from that feature international and local or even fusion cuisine. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Nightlife

Langkawi isn’t the place to come to for a nightlife scene of clubs, bars and pubs belting out skull-pounding techno electronica music. Still, Pantai Cenang, Langkawi’s most-happening stretch, boasts Langkawi’s best nightlife scene. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Shopping

Pantai Cenang is a haven for tourist shopping at the entire beach road is lined with shops and stalls on both sides. These shops sell mostly souvenirs in the form of fashion accessories, beads, handicrafts and merchandise but there are also many convenience stores. Read more...

Pantai Cenang Map

Our interactive map (and satellite views) displays all available hotels with photos, facilities and guest comments as well as attractions, landmarks and other items of interest with links to relevant information pages. The perfect way to find your way around and see where everything actually is. Read more...

Cameron Highlands

History of Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands is a well developed hill resort which is located in the state of Pahang in Peninsular malaysia. It was named after a British surveyor, William Cameron who discovered it in 1885 during a mapping expedition. Since 1920, the hill has undergone various development that makes what it is today - an excellent place for tourists to spend their holidays

.

Its temperature ranges from 10 °C to 25 °C hence a favourite place for one to escape the heat of the cities. One can easily take a slow drive up or down the highland depending on which route one takes and stop by the many strawberry farms, vegetable gardens, cactus gardens, bee farms and rose gardens. Buy some of the products that are sold as you visit the farms.

Tea Plantation

A neatly planted tea plantation

Transporting tea leaves to the factor

Its attraction include the neatly planted tea plantations where one can go and see how the tea leaves are plucked and processed. The beautiful view overlooking the plantation is excellent for a picture album. The major ones that one can visit are the BHARAT tea plantation, BOH tea plantation and Blue Valley tea plantation. Visit any one of them and try the freshly brewed tea and enjoy the tranquility of the mountains. Among the 3 tea plantations, the one that is conveniently located beside the road is the BHARAT tea plantation. You will not miss it as it is located between the town of Habu and Tanah Rata.

Cactus Garden

Some of the cactus that are on sale

The many array of cactus that are on sale at Cactus Point in Brinchang town. Entrance to the farm is free of charge and there are many different type and budget cactus that one can choose to purchase.

Bee Farm

Bee farm

This picture of the bee farm is taken from Ee Feng Gu Farn. Entrance to the farm is free of charge. Here you will be able to sample and taste the honey produced from this farm and purchase some if you want to. Even if you do not intend to purchase the honey, dropping by the farm and taking a walk around it is an experience itself. You will be able to see the many beautiful flowers that are planted as nectar for the bees to make honey.

Brinchang Mountain

Brinchang Mountain at 6666 feet above sea level

For the more adventures, take a drive or book a tour to Brinchang Mountain, the second highest mountain in Cameron Highlands. You will be able to see the beautiful landscape on your way there. As the road is quite narrow, be careful when you drive. Try to go when the weather is not too misty or you may not be able to see a good view of the valley when you reach the mountain. If you can, jungle trek and you will see the many beautiful plants of the mountain but make sure you get a good guide so as not to get lost in the jungle.

Accommodation

The Tudor Style Lakehouse

There are many budget, middle and high end hotels that you can choose to stay. The high end hotels include Cameron Highlands Hotel and Equatorial Hotel. For those who like to experience the Tudor Style hotel, there is the Lakehouse hotel which is located in Ringlet.

Personally, I would like to recommend The Lakehouse which was refurbished recently but still maintain its unique Tudor style. It has a big garden where one can sit and enjoy the mountainous scenery surrounding it. For those who is on a tighter budget, Rosa Pasadena is another reasonably priced hotel with basic amenities.

Getting To Cameron Highlands

If you are coming from the city of Kuala Lumpur, there are basically 2 ways to reach Cameron Highlands. The old and traditional way is driving through the narrow road via the town of Tapah. Though the journey up is winding, you will be able to see many beautiful plants that abound here.

The other easier way is using the NKVE Expressway and exit at Simpang Pulai instead of Tapah. The road from Simpang Pulai to Cameron is a new road which was opened to the public recently. It is wider and less winding compared to the traditional route. This route takes appoximately 51 km to reach Sungai Ikan.

If you are adventures, I would like to recommend that you go up using the traditional way via Tapah and coming back using the Simpang Pulai way. I can assure you that you will enjoy both of your trips.

Butterfly Garden

Kenong Rimba Park

Kenong Rimba Park

We arrived in Jerantut (coming from Kota Bharu) by train at 19.20 and we were looking for a nice, clean guesthouse. The trip by train was very impressing. The toilets were very dirty and we saw a lot of black beetles on the train. A nice guy on the train (his name was "Abdul") advised us to stay at the
Greenpark Guesthouse in Jerantut. The jungle is very impressing. We didn't want to miss that train!
The old train stopped every quarter of an hour. If you want to get out somewhere in the bush, just tell the train conductor. He'll stop. You don't need a railway station, he'll stop!
A taxi driver took us for free to the guesthouse. At that moment we were not aware, that this was the beginning of a very special trip.

On the train from Kota Bharu to Jerantut

We book a double room (RM20) when we arrive at the Greenpark Guesthouse. It's clean and cosy. There's free tea, coffee.... you can even prepare your own food in the kitchen, but it's nicer to eat outside at the hawker stalls. There's also the Internet for RM4 per hour. Actually, it's a backpackers guesthouse, but we feel home at once.
It seems we can organize our trip to the Kenong Rimba Park here in the guesthouse. They have their own guides. We can book a trip to Taman Negara also. We decide to go for the survival trip to Kenong Rimba.
So we book our trip (2 nights/ 3 days) for RM250 per person. Inclusive: guides, breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. But we need a backpack for trekking, so we have to buy that.
Kenong Rimba is situated in natural surroundings with cascading waterfalls, caves, clear mountain streams and a variety of flora and fauna. Within the Kenong Rimba Park, there are several caves to explore. There are Gua Batu Telangkup, Gua Hijau and Gua Harimau. The Caves, situated approximately 122-152 meters above sea level, are a natural habitat for a range of flora and nature's other marvels.
What we need to buy:

- bathing suit - towel - toiletries - torchlight/ water bottle - knives

- joggers/ walking shoes - insect repellent - caps - medicines

Day1

In the morning there's a taxi ride (25 km) to Kuala Lipis, the staging point to the Park. Then there's a long boat waiting for us. We're on the river for 30 minutes and then we have to walk four kilometres through the jungle. We take our time for that walk. After four hours we finally reach our base camp. Here they prepare in a wok our lunch: rice, vegetables, chicken and omelette. It's delicious!
Accommodation at the park is limited to visitors. However, at present there are a few units of wooden huts for visitors. Tonight we have one of those wooden huts!
In the afternoon we visit a cave. The park boasts a complex network of caves, each with individual uniqueness of geological formations and fascinating legend. Our cave must be very old. We see a very old fire place, which has fascinated geologist and archaeologists from all over the world and must be from the Stone Age. This cave have played a role in the story of human civilisation right from the Stone Age till today.
The cave is also the home to a lot of bats.
We are witness of beautifully sculpted stalagmites and stalactites.
When we are back in our base camp, we have a swim a the river. That night we sleep in a wooden hut on stilts.

Day2

It's gonna be a long day for us. After our breakfast we get a lot of stuff for our survival trip: basic sleeping bags, basic sleeping mats, tea, chocolate milk, noodles, candy's and an orange.
After a trip through the jungle we reach again a cave. Again we see a lot of bats, hanging on the ceiling.
We have to walk again trough Malaysia's tropical rainforest until it's lunch time.
For lunch we get a tuna fish salad and bread. We are troubled by a lot of bloodsuckers.
We see and hear a lot of animals in the afternoon, but not those wild animals we wanted to see: tigers, elephants, or wild and dangerous animals. We see: squirrels, mousedeers, a variety of birds, primates and many more that exist in this thick jungle.
At five o'clock we stop and the guides are going to make our dinner. That evening we have noodles, tuna fish with sauce.
When it's dark, we have to climb a self made ladder and we enter a cave. This cave will be our bedroom for tonight. Our mats and sleeping bags are very thin, so it's hard to get some sleep that night. Mostly we're listening to the sounds of the jungle and we're enjoying the wonderful view at the full moon.
It's great to be in the jungle.

Day3

The next morning we wake up and hear the sounds of gibbons and birds everywhere. We made sure that the campsite was completely clean and that we had left no traces of our passing except for an extinguished fire.
The sun had broken through and we made the trail to our Base Camp, up and down several steep hills, across several streams. Finally we reach the Base Camp where we have delicious lunch.
After lunch we have to back to Jerantut. We can choose between the train and the local bus. We take the local bus.
In Jerantut we have a very fast bus to Kuala Lumpur. It costs only RM10.85 and we're back in the Golden Triangle of Kuala Lumpur.

Important info:
webblog: http://my-greenpark.blogspot.com
email address: info.my.greenpark@gmail.com
private email: azamwild@gmail.com

Taman Negara: Kuala Tahan

Taman Negara: Kuala Tahan

Taman Negara is the most extensive protected area of pristine, lowland, evergreen rainforest in the country. . Over 1300 square kilometres of tropical jungle in its natural state was designated "THE GUNUNG TAHAN GAME RESERVE". This became the National Park in 1938 when the Sultan of Pahang, Terengganu and Kelantan set aside the present area, and named it the "KING GEORGE V NATIONAL PARK". After Independence, the name was changed to TAMAN NEGARA. The stated purpose of Taman Negara is "to utilise the land within the park in perpetuity, for the propagation, protection and preservation of indigeneous flora and fauna".

When you don't need all the luxury of the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort, your stay in Kuala Tahan will be a good alternative . Anyway, it's much cheaper than the Mutiara Resort.
Kuala Tahan is a little town and the NKS is the ground operator. They don't own any boat and they work on mutual understanding with the remote villagers who run the boat and they are the one who run the most responsible, reliable and professional duty during your tour at Taman Negara.
Remember they are the best swimmer in the river And this is the place, where they are born. They are very friendly and their attitude is that the "Customer is always right".
I'm always receiving very positive mails about the NKS and Kuala Tahan.

The shuttle bus of the NKS departs from Hotel Mandarin Pacific, Chinatown - Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur. us stops at Jerantut town before noon to allow passengers to take their lunch. Passengers will board another NKS shuttle bus at 1.30 pm to Kuala Tembeling Jetty. When in Jerantut, please feel free to enquire at NKS Office in Hotel Sri Emas, Jerantut for any assistance or questions.
Bus Daily Departure Time: 8.00 am (Register at 7.30 am at NKS Office in Hotel Mandarin Pacific) Cost: RM30 per person one way. From the Kuala Tembeling Jetty it is a scenic 3 hour (approximately) boat ride up the Tembeling River to the Park's headquarters at Kuala Tahan.
Boat Daily Departure Times: 9 am / 2 pm except Fridays when only 1 boat leaves at 2:45pm Cost: RM22 per person one way

A look from the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort across the river to Kuala Tahan. You see the floating restaurants and shops. The chalets you can rent in Kuala Tahan, are behind the trees.
There's always a boat to bring you to the other side of the Tembeling river. A boat ride across the river will cost you RM0.50 per person.

The "floating restaurants" on the river side at Kuala Tahan. Sorry, they don't sell beer in the restaurants. In the evening i'ts lovely to have dinner on one of these boats.
There are also mini supermarkets, a souvenir shop and a travel agency of the NKS. Here you can book your excursions into Taman Negara or to the Caves.
The car on the beach brought some people for Taman Negara (on the other side of the river).

Below you see some pictures of the chalets of Kuala Tahan, supermarkets, the road to Kuala Tahan etc.
I hope you like them.

Map of Kuala Tahan (Jos Alblas)

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Royal Belum State Park, Perak, Malaysia

From the Travel Times

Getting There

Belum Valley is located, midway between the East and West Coasts. The nearest towns are Grik in Perak and Jeli in Kelantan which are connected by the scenic East-West Highway. Kuala Lumpur to Belum takes six hours by road. Join the North-South Highway and exit at Kuala Kangsar. Head for Grik and then to Pulau Banding. It is also accessible from Baling in Kedah via Pengkalan Hulu from the north. From Kota Bharu it's a three-hour drive. The nearest railway station is Kuala Kangsar, a long way off. To get to the campsites, arrange for boat transfer with tour operators who normally include the boat fee and entry permit (RM10) in the package. Unfortunately, the operators are not centrally located. For more information on lodging, boat ride, trekking and nature guide, call the Perak State Economic Planning Unit (Tourism) at 05-5225119 or Perhilitan Perak at 05-7911164.



Accomodation

The first choice is camping by the lake or river. There are also floating chalets and a few units of chalet at the Orang Asli settlement. However, for something comfortable, Banding Island Resort offers rooms ranging from standard, superior and deluxe with choices of hill or lake view. Rooms are basic with coffee/tea-making facilities. Resort also has a campsite and function rooms equipped with modern audio visual aids. Located at Pulau Banding, the third biggest island in Tasik Temenggor, the resort makes an ideal stop-over for motorists using the East-West Highway. It also offers a host of adventure activities like fishing, kayaking, jungle walking and trekking, bird watching, camping or visiting the Orang Asli settlement. For food, guests have two choices – the air-conditioned Hornbill Restaurant or unpretentious Warung at the lakeside. For more information, call 05-7921791/2 or e-mail banding@tm.net.my.

THERE was no warning given that we should prepare for a tough time for this three-day trip to Sara, one of the main valleys in Lower Belum Forest of the Ulu Perak district.
Soon we would have to do six hours of jungle trekking in the relatively unexplored rainforests – hunting for rafflesia or bunga pakma, wild ginger blooms and salt licks.
But with excitement over the trip running high, we chose to immediately head for the campsite despite our host's offer of spending the night in relative comfort at Banding Island Resort to freshen up after the long drive from Kuala Lumpur.

The resort is located on Pulau Banding, the third largest of the 80 or so islands in the 152 sq km Tasik Temenggor, created after the Temenggor Dam was built in 1978.
So our nature guide Sulaiman wasted no time in preparing the boat, rations and camping equipment for the night.

"Our first stop is Kiroi campsite and tomorrow we will head to Kampung Post Chiong for our rafflesia and salt lick trekking," Sulaiman briefed us.
Even though the monsoon has started to show its colours, the water level is surprisingly low at Tasik Temenggor – the second largest man-made lake in the peninsula after Terengganu's Kenyir.
While at places the lake can be as deep as 60 metres, the low water level makes the sprawling lake exclusively the domain of experienced and licensed boatmen.

The smooth 40-minute boat ride ended with a tricky "docking" manoeuvre during which our boatman Zaidi had to carefully inch the boat between sprouting tree trunks.
Kiroi, an Orang Asli settlement site of abundance, was invitingly beautiful. It has a gentle slope of an L-shape grass area facing an inlet at one side and the thick jungle at the other.
We set camp at its longest arm with the sight of lonely tree trunks poking out of the placid water. Thanks to the bright half-moon, this beautiful picture gets extra glitter from the shinning stars.
The next morning, cold mist awoke us and gave the boost to start our much-awaited hunt, a 20-minute boat ride away to Kampung Post Chiong, a small village of the Temiar tribe.

From the kampung, our Orang Asli guide Abus led us into the "jungle" with an easy 20-minute walk along the river bank of Sungai Sara and another 20-minute walk to an old police post.

"If not for the low water level, the boat will take us upstream to the police post," Sulaiman said. There is a "straight" trek to the Pering Salt Lick along Sungai Terming, a tributary of Sungai Sara. Since we were in the hunt for rafflesia, Sulaiman made a long way round deeper into the forest. While he insisted it was the normal rafflesia trail, we could hardly make out any signs of a footpath. Hill after hill, we just plodded on through the thick forest, grabbing for anything firm within reach to pull us up or steady our footing. Along the undulating trail, wild ginger blooms and fungus broke the monotony before a dark red bud the size of tennis ball led us to a bigger bud – as big as a dinner plate – awaiting to reach full rafflesia bloom in a week.

The Rafflesia is a strange plant…. the fact that when it is in bloom, it stinks to high heaven gives enough weight. Unlike other plants, there are no leaves

"Like humans, it takes nine months to reach full bloom from a tiny dot on its specific host, the tetrasigma vines," Sulaiman explained.
The buds will help determine the best time for nature lovers to come a-calling, provided that they do not succumb to weather or "alien" substances like salt, perfume or oil.
Unlike the rafflesia found in other tropical countries, this parasitic plant in Belum Forest is non-seasonal and bears flowers continuously.

Thankfully, the sight of rafflesia gave us renewed energy to finish the trek at the nearest salt lick. This took another hour across Sungai Terming.
We could immediately sense the strong smell of sulphur when we reached the three ponds positioned like a cascading waterfall while some eight metres uphill, there were two more ponds with the bigger one of white sulphur.

It took only two hours to trek back to our boat at Kampung Post Chiong and Sulaiman tempted us to consider staying on in the resort for a rare encounter with Belum's "treasure". "We can go 'hunting' the wild elephants," he suggested.

We couldn't resist and agreed to the night drive on the East-West Highway, looking for the giant mammals as they made their way across the road.
However, the excursion only went as far as 15km from the resort. It costs RM30 per van. Just before the second "causeway" of Banding island, we caught the glint of elephant eyes and behold, a huge elephant was busy feeding itself. That was quite a sight.
To round up the successful nature expedition, Sulaiman proposed fishing the next morning for the lake is teeming with toman, sebarau, kelah and baung.
Well, time to confess we had no luck. Looks like the toman was far too cunning for jungle novices like us. Belum Forest wasn't taking it lying down. That's a challenge we must take up another day.

the blooming rafflesia